New FA: Orchestrated Violence
Video, service Design, strategy
As the Redhill missions continue, we bring more news! Be Bolder spent some time climbing with and filming Benjamin de Charmoy. Benjamin has been working on opening a new 8A+ at Vajra. This past Sunday, it went down and we’ve got the official clip to show you!
We caught up with Benjamin to chat to him about the new first ascent (FA).
Could you briefly describe the climb for us?
It’s the extension of Sounds of Violence (8A) opened by Marijus. It traverses the full side of the boulder on a slightly overhanging face. The crux is probably placing a right toe far off to the right on a decent edge, but this after a cut-loose with hands matched on the worst hold of the problem. Then a hard pull to the right, just holding the tension and hoping the right foot stays. However, the individual moves in good conditions are not heinous but linking it took a bit of luck and much effort.
How long has this climb been a project and what motivated you to do it?
I’m not sure. It’s pretty obvious to climb the whole face but the be(y)ta was not as straightforward. I use a sneaky toe hook (on a face climb hehehehehe) and a friend of mine (Rowan Toselli) does a crazy crossover. I tried it years ago and I’m still convinced I had better beta back then, but it’s lost forever now. As for motivation, I’m always psyched to climb things and this was no different.
How did you come up with the name Orchestrated Violence?
The other climbs that make up that side of the boulder are Sounds of Violence, Sound of Violins and so I called my addition Orchestrated Violence. Not sure if there is a method of name construction but that’s how it happened.
What does it mean to you to establish first ascents?
I’m all about ascents. Being the first is not a big part of my view but figuring out beta is where I get a lot of joy. So I guess knowing that something has never been done and there is no: ‘so-and-so did it like this and that oke did it like that’ running around in your head, the process of figuring it out is sometimes more engaging. That being said opening new lines is rad! I’m often party to establishing new stuff like this line but not always the first, and to me that makes no difference.
Great send Benjamin! We like your philosophy and approach to climbing 🙂 Keep crushing.